We have rarely seen so few florals in a London fashion week but fortunately, Richard Quinn and Erdem were here to cover the catwalks with flowers. Would the uncertain prospects of the British economy be for something? No worries, the London fashion week remains among the most exciting and creative ones of the calendar. The telescoping between daywear and evening, the use of silk and drapery, the work of colors and volumes, all this deserves the lighting of Carlin Creative:
RED & FRIENDS
Do red and pink match? This nagging question has teased wardrobes for several generations and we finally have the answer: it depends. If it’s vintage Yves Saint Laurent, the answer is yes with your eyes closed. When it comes to British fashion … well, it’s obviously riskier, due to very specific color culture. By the way, do red and lilac match?
HELMUT LANG REVIVAL
The irony is that if the Helmut Lang label runways in New York, its influence is very palpable on London catwalks, which are not particularly recognized for minimalism and sobriety, and yet. The dawn of the 2000s becomes the new step of “decades revival” and sets the tone for a pared-down and urban fashion.
If you see something hanging on one side, a fabric panel that floats on the right, a too long sleeve … don’t panic, it’s normal: this is the new look imagined by the London designers. Symmetry is boring, so to give movement to the silhouette, some more fullness is added on one side, which boosts the pace and gait.
Corsets and bustiers emphasize the silhouette, whatever the type of fashion or style : sporty at Burberry, tailored at Chalayan, disruptive at Fashion East … all avatars of the bustier are welcome, integrated in the garment or overlayed. To be noted, the spectrum of possibilities in terms of materials, which contribute to renew this very current fashion gimmick in the recent seasons.
Revisited Argyle diamonds and tartan checks respond one another, some in knitted version and others in woven version; British textile tradition at its best to be worn from head to toe. Yes, both may be combined. And yes, total look is recommended.
This season, the traditional English flowers have been less employed, so it was necessary to find something more to cheer up next autumn-winter and well, let’s go for ostrich feathers; in mass or finishing, in plain or in multicolored version … Mary Katranzou made them the leitmotif of her collection and gives us a dazzling demonstration on their possibilities.