Paris Fashion Week will have taught us something fundamental, decisive, that we could feel coming and which has clearly confirmed: ciao sport, bye-bye streetwear, long live chic!! Put away your hoodies and sweatshirts, or sell them online while there’s still time. From now on, you will only wear your sneakers and track suits for… running. End of the story. Paris wants chic, dressy, sharpness; Paris wants allure… and volume! So, Yes to an ambitious and assertive fashion, which Carlin Creative decrypts for you the main directions:
It could have been a simple gray woolen coat but the designers decided to shake up this iconic piece. At Margiela, it’s transformed into a dress, at Nina Ricci the coat extends itself like an integrated stole, and at Rokh, talented newcomer, it gets multiplied in layering of jackets on skirt.
It’s been several seasons that they reign on catwalks; the shoulders sign more than ever the silhouette and set the tone of an assertive and very constructed fashion. There is a strong creativity and a great mastery in the construction of heads of sleeves and the work of volumes, each designer having his own vision of the shoulder and its proportion.
It is long, and even really long, it has been seen in many collections and it perfectly embodies the look of this slightly theatrical season, the maxi-coat is generously declined: as a silky down-jacket at Balenciaga, in nonchalant tweed wool at Chanel or in color blocking at Marine Serre. Must-have!
THE “DOLL” SKIRT
Admittedly, this one surprised the whole fashion sphere, with its dancing fullness, its gathers and its petticoat look in upgraded shiny treatment … This new skirt flirts with the knees, above or below, and also comes in dress version. To be noted, it willingly teams with the leather, as main fabric or in association with a jacket.
Yes, OK, tartan will be very very fashionable next autumn – even Marine Serre has tried it – but basically, we already knew that. So, to go beyond this Scottish obsession, there are plenty of alternatives starring two-tone checks, grungy-chic at Dior, graphic checkerboard-like at Vuitton or “window” at Off-White.
This is THE heavy trend of FW season : color is now played in monochrome, total-look, from head to toe. Do not mix, do not match, do not mismatch. However, a subtle interaction between pink and red could be tolerated – and even encouraged- between this consanguine combo that goes up.
This season, more than ever, the waist is emphasized, then let’s go for belts and opt for the square buckle, a must-have this season.
Coming soon, the summary of all FW fashion-weeks, not to be missed!