This season, to reflect a totally atypical British fashion week, Carlin Creative offers you a new type of decryption in the form of crossed portraits of the London’s essential designers, comparing collections with sometimes similar styles or interpreting the same trend with their own DNA. A new view on FW collections and a sometimes surprising dialogue, where fashion affinities are not always what you expect …
HALPERN vs. DAVID KOMA
Appearing on the London catwalks about 3 years ago, Michael Halpern imposed himself with festive and colorful sequins, offering a sparkling wardrobe under obvious disco influence. This season, the designer is interested in black & white, with a more tailor-made vein and by working his beloved sequins in bold optical patterns. David Koma, veteran of a sharp and glam fashion, answers him on a field of similar style, for a silhouette always very assertive and graphic.
COLVILLE vs. DURO OLOWU
Molly Molloy and Lucinda Chambers, the founders of Colville, from the start injected their collections with varied and colorful influences, European or South American, in an approach to design sometimes close to interior decoration. This season, they are betting on large retro prints in total-look. Duro Olowu, for his part, drew inspiration from photos of African Americans from the 60s and 70s to come up with a vibrant collection that daringly juxtaposes patterns.
SIMONE ROCHA vs. ERDEM
If these two labels have always been working a kind of “romantic” fashion, Simone Rocha has established itself as a major London label and internationally bankable, with this season a grungy ballerina influence on soft rebellious mode. Her challenger, Erdem Moralogliu, has made floral his favorite territory, with for next fall an approach that is still a little bit melancholic, but looking structured by the shapes and the choice of fabrics.
MOLLY GODDARD vs. MARK FAST
Not much should bring these labels together, and yet…! While Molly Goddard has made a name for herself with her voluminous bubbly tulle dresses, still present in her collection, the designer is broadening her offer to more everyday silhouettes, with this season a warm wardrobe around tartan. Mark Fast is also interested in checks by twisting them on down jackets or by associating them with other patterns, in a dynamic and pep’s approach.
ROKSANDA vs TOGA
Rokasanda Ilincic proclaimed herself the queen of color blocking, often working it on long dresses quite popular on red-carpets. For next season, the designer also offers more neutral silhouettes, focused on working with volumes and fabrics. Yasuko Furuta, Toga designer and founder, has a multicultural vision that makes her label one of the most interesting on the London scene, offering a collection that combines a search for proportions and singular details.
And finally, just for the fun of it, immerse yourself in the electrifying world of designer Matty Bovan, psychedelic at will, with clothes like collages, happily juxtaposing upcycled materials or locally sourced.
SENIOR DESIGNER WOMEN’S RTW