Body Thinking! This is the key word of this London fashion week, which never ceased to decline its obsession for the body, the unveiled body, sexualized or de-gendered, sublimated or fetishized; in short, the body which once again becomes the very matrix of fashion, its “raison d’être”, its flesh and even its soul. The legendary creativity of London designers has been abundantly expressed around this bodily obsession, rich in diversified expressions, carnal or political, as if to turn the page on a long period of withdrawal, of an over-sanitized and virtual life through screens, keeping human contact at a distance. End of the sequence then, let’s get physical!

The “chiseled” body

Nensi Dojaka, boosted by the LVMH Prize she won last season, continues her work around corsetry and hosiery, expanding her vocabulary with a more diversified spectrum of materials. But the intention remains the same: offering sensual and chic fashion, ultra-enhancing for the women who wear it. Meanwhile, Mark Fast designs dresses for urban vestals, made of crisscrossing lines worked in extension on the body, for a woman-vine with a super lively body.

Nensi Dojaka – Photo Daniele Oberrauch

Mark Fast – Photo Isidore Montag

The “chiseled” body

Nensi Dojaka, boosted by the LVMH Prize she won last season, continues her work around corsetry and hosiery, expanding her vocabulary with a more diversified spectrum of materials. But the intention remains the same: offering sensual and chic fashion, ultra-enhancing for the women who wear it. Meanwhile, Mark Fast designs dresses for urban vestals, made of crisscrossing lines worked in extension on the body, for a woman-vine with a super lively body.

Nensi Dojaka – Photo Daniele Oberrauch

Nensi Dojaka – Photo Daniele Oberrauch

Nensi Dojaka – Photo Daniele Oberrauch

Mark Fast – Photo Isidore Montag

Mark Fast – Photo Isidore Montag

Mark Fast – Photo Isidore Montag

The de-gendered body

Two radically different fashion expressions and yet a common point around gender-fluidity, a concept that could define the designer Harris Reed himself, who presented his 2nd demi-couture collection, ultra-theatrical on a female and male cast, whether this terminology still means something in this context. At Matty Bovan, with the exception of the opening and the finale entrusted to the magnificent Irina Shayk, the entire collection is presented on boys.

Harris Reed – Photo Marc Hibbert

Matty Bovan – Photo Alessandro Lucioni

The de-gendered body

Two radically different fashion expressions and yet a common point around gender-fluidity, a concept that could define the designer Harris Reed himself, who presented his 2nd demi-couture collection, ultra-theatrical on a female and male cast, whether this terminology still means something in this context. At Matty Bovan, with the exception of the opening and the finale entrusted to the magnificent Irina Shayk, the entire collection is presented on boys.

Harris Reed – Photo Marc Hibbert

Harris Reed – Photo Marc Hibbert

Harris Reed – Photo Marc Hibbert

Matty Bovan – Photo Alessandro Lucioni

Matty Bovan – Photo Alessandro Lucioni

Matty Bovan – Photo Alessandro Lucioni

The fetishized body

Beneath Richard Quinn’s roomy floral dresses, the models’ bodies are sheathed in black latex, creating a striking visual contrast between its silky haute-couture volumes and the fetishistic shine of lacquered black. At David Koma, “Diamonds are a Girl’s Best Friends” with the encrustation of jewels around the legs, the neck, the arms… thigh-high boots and rhinestones, well, in short, a sexy-glam fashion with totally assumed male gaze.

Richard Quinn – Photo Isidore Montag

David Koma

The fetishized body

Beneath Richard Quinn’s roomy floral dresses, the models’ bodies are sheathed in black latex, creating a striking visual contrast between its silky haute-couture volumes and the fetishistic shine of lacquered black. At David Koma, “Diamonds are a Girl’s Best Friends” with the encrustation of jewels around the legs, the neck, the arms… thigh-high boots and rhinestones, well, in short, a sexy-glam fashion with totally assumed male gaze.

Richard Quinn – Photo Isidore Montag

Richard Quinn – Photo Isidore Montag

Richard Quinn – Photo Isidore Montag

David Koma

David Koma

David Koma

The cut-out body

Christopher Kane, one of the most anchored names in London fashion week, decides to cut out his silhouettes with graphic portholes positioned on different parts of the body. The idea of ​​working with large openworks on the silhouette is also found among the young emerging designers of the Fashion East collective: Jawara Alleyne and Maximilian Davis, symbols of the rising generation.

Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane

Fashion East – Photo Filippo Fior

Fashion East – Photo Filippo Fior

Fashion East – Photo Filippo Fior

The cut-out body

Christopher Kane, one of the most anchored names in London fashion week, decides to cut out his silhouettes with graphic portholes positioned on different parts of the body. The idea of ​​working with large openworks on the silhouette is also found among the young emerging designers of the Fashion East collective: Jawara Alleyne and Maximilian Davis, symbols of the rising generation.

Christopher Kane

Fashion East – Photo Filippo Fior

The performative body

Preen the label decided to present its collection on the very young dancers of the English National Ballet School, thus giving an almost subversive dimension to the collection, breaking with the usual morphological standards of fashion shows. And for the underground atmosphere of which London has the secret, dive into the heart of the wild performance of the alternative label Sports Bangers…!

Preen – Photo Filippo Fior

Sports Banger – Photo Ollie Grove

Youtube – Preen by Thornton Bregazzi London Woman FW 22-23

The performative body

Preen the label decided to present its collection on the very young dancers of the English National Ballet School, thus giving an almost subversive dimension to the collection, breaking with the usual morphological standards of fashion shows. And for the underground atmosphere of which London has the secret, dive into the heart of the wild performance of the alternative label Sports Bangers…!

Preen – Photo Filippo Fior

Preen – Photo Filippo Fior

Preen – Photo Filippo Fior

Sports Banger – Photo Ollie Grove

Sports Banger – Photo Ollie Grove

Sports Banger – Photo Ollie Grove

Youtube – Preen by Thornton Bregazzi London Woman FW 22-23

The mysterious body

Simone Rocha is not a frivolous or sexy-driven designer, far from it; its universe of dark romanticism often imbued with mysticism does not expose the body to the gaze but nevertheless, through games of placed transparency, the collection reveals or rather subtly suggests the presence of the body under dresses with almost Gothic accents.

Simone Rocha – Photo Alessandro Lucioni

Simone Rocha – Photo Alessandro Lucioni

Simone Rocha – Photo Alessandro Lucioni

Simone Rocha – Photo Alessandro Lucioni

The mysterious body

Simone Rocha is not a frivolous or sexy-driven designer, far from it; its universe of dark romanticism often imbued with mysticism does not expose the body to the gaze but nevertheless, through games of placed transparency, the collection reveals or rather subtly suggests the presence of the body under dresses with almost Gothic accents.

Simone Rocha – Photo Alessandro Lucioni

Coming soon : Milano fashion week!

THOMAS ZYLBERMAN
SENIOR DESIGNER WOMEN’S RTW

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