London Fashion Week is a joyful melting pot of disparate and creative singularities that definitely don’t want to fit into the boxes. Beyond major general trends, the aim here is to identify the most astonishing and inspiring collections, to highlight the specificities and biases of certain particularly spirited designers. What brings them together and what makes them unique? We tell you everything!
THE BODY
That was the nickname given to supermodel Elle MacPherson in the early 90s, you don’t always choose …! For 2022, David Koma and Mark Fast are betting on a fairly literal treat, frankly assuming the idea of assertive sexiness, while Suspiria Lele or Fashion East choose a less 1st degree approach, especially in the choice of materials.
SILKY MONOCHROME
Large, monochrome, brightly colored surfaces, treated in shiny taffeta-type silks for large volumes with sculptural proportions. An option that is ultimately more interesting and above all more radical than the eternal announced return of color blocking.
HEDONISTIC FEATHERS
Ostrich feathers are happy stuff, festive trick; it’s the hedonistic element of the SS22 season’s bubbly mood, in London anyway. In big “ball” volume on showtime mood or in a lighter, more minimal version; well, feathers know how to adapt!
GARDEN PRINCESS
Gee, you mean, floral prints at London fashion week, come ooon !? Real trend or inalienable cultural determinism, they are treated in very very fresh tones, springtime and luminous colors. Style level, the spectrum is wide: basically, it goes from the very wise princess at Emilia Wickstead to the slightly scary mutant princess at Richard Quinn.
FOCUS ON...
JW ANDERSON
A deliberately short, reduced collection, where we find this ultra-creative handcrafted touch that characterizes this designer in full resilience after the pandemic. Through materials and volumes, an innovative fashion in constant reinvention and ultra-contemporary design.
HARRIS REED
Designer, muse, pop star, influencer, celeb’? Harris Reed is a bit of all of these at the same time; he runs catwalks for Gucci, he revamps singer Harry Styles, he floods Instagram with his androgynous looks that have become his signature. He just presented his very first collection based on the transformation of second-hand wedding dresses into fashion pieces that are already collector ones.
SIMONE ROCHA
Mainstreamized and internationalized since her recent collaboration with H&M, the Irish-born designer proclaims her attachment to family, ancient traditions and religious rituals, with this collection of old-fashioned charm, sometimes flirting with Gothic style.
RICHARD QUINN
In less than a dozen collections, Richard Quinn has established himself as one of the most exciting British designer with his sense of eccentricity and theatricality. He does not hesitate to draw on the codes of the national heritage, between decadent aristocratic expressions, ennobled punks and deliberately overplayed historicisms.
NENSI DOJAKA
This young designer has just won the LVMH Prize with this ultra-sensual collection, updating a certain idea of sexiness which draws her obsession with perfect detail from the world of corsetry. All combined with impeccable tailoring, here is The New Chic!
Coming soon: Milano Fashion Week!
