Milano Fashion Week gave us a downright extreme experience, constantly tearing ourselves between sex appeal and sobriety, contemporary design and over-exploited clichés to the point of excess. Indeed, some main Italian houses seem impervious to the important questions that are currently spreading through western society on femininity, its representation, its codes… Huh, whaaat? R U talkin ’to me?? Tacky boots, super-hot minis, scorching bustiers, bright and sparkling silhouettes… At Dolce & Gabbana or Cavalli, Versace or Blumarine, to definitely leave the pandemic behind, focus is on show-off glam, sometimes with the Y2K alibi, meaning the 2000s’ flashy fashion, Paris Hilton revival. On the other side of the spectrum, Raf Simons at Prada or Kim Jones at Fendi are working hard to balance the scales and, you’ll see it, they are not the only ones. Come on, we’ll show you around:

HOT MINI

Well, let’s not beat around the bush anymore and burst the abscess right away: Milano wants legs, thighs and even more; it depends if the ground is flat or if there are steps, then it will be hot. Solid or printed, mat or satin, mini is a main trend of the season, so be informed that the use of midi length dresses and skirts will be strictly limited to bringing kids at school.

Roberto Cavalli

Prada

Etro

Fendi

HOT MINI

Well, let’s not beat around the bush anymore and burst the abscess right away: Milano wants legs, thighs and even more; it depends if the ground is flat or if there are steps, then it will be hot. Solid or printed, mat or satin, mini is a main trend of the season, so be informed that the use of midi length dresses and skirts will be strictly limited to bringing kids at school.

Roberto Cavalli

Prada

Etro

Fendi

BLACK LEATHER

Hey, great, we will bring out our good old leather jacket, asleep in the back of the dressing room, long live the re-use economy! It’s very simple, as long as it’s black it’s ok. Prada offers a large range of diversified designs, to be worn ideally on the aforementioned mini. It gets tougher with the bustier version, plus matching leather shorts option, not sure we already have that in our closets; we’ll have to invest.

Prada

Dolce Gabbana

Tod’s

Philosophy

BLACK LEATHER

Hey, great, we will bring out our good old leather jacket, asleep in the back of the dressing room, long live the re-use economy! It’s very simple, as long as it’s black it’s ok. Prada offers a large range of diversified designs, to be worn ideally on the aforementioned mini. It gets tougher with the bustier version, plus matching leather shorts option, not sure we already have that in our closets; we’ll have to invest.

Prada

Dolce Gabbana

Tod’s

Philosophy

CROCHET WAVE

You’d thought it was mainly for strolling by the seaside like at Etro’s, but well not only; crochet will definitely be worn downtown, in a structured little dress version at Max Mara or in a graphic total-look at Jil Sander. Not to forget the basket-weaving jumpsuit from Alberta Ferretti, the challenge of the season.

Etro

Max Mara

Jil Sander

Alberta Ferretti

CROCHET WAVE

You’d thought it was mainly for strolling by the seaside like at Etro’s, but well not only; crochet will definitely be worn downtown, in a structured little dress version at Max Mara or in a graphic total-look at Jil Sander. Not to forget the basket-weaving jumpsuit from Alberta Ferretti, the challenge of the season.

Etro

Max Mara

Jil Sander

Alberta Ferretti

BIKINI FEVER

Also in this fantasized beach-in-town lifestyle or Riviera remote working, we will be living quite a lot in bikinis next season, enough to transform any somewhat boring video conference into a scorching beach party. So, the game is based on showing at least one triangle, appearing in a cut-out, a deep neckline, a half-open buttoning … At Bluemarine, both are happily shown, seems more Y2K .

Missoni

Dolce & Gabbana

Etro

Blumarine

BIKINI FEVER

Also in this fantasized beach-in-town lifestyle or Riviera remote working, we will be living quite a lot in bikinis next season, enough to transform any somewhat boring video conference into a scorching beach party. So, the game is based on showing at least one triangle, appearing in a cut-out, a deep neckline, a half-open buttoning … At Bluemarine, both are happily shown, seems more Y2K .

Missoni

Dolce & Gabbana

Etro

Blumarine

WIDE LEGS

And at the bottom, what’s to be worn? Beautiful wide-legged pants, roomy but structured, with a subtly silky, even slightly satin-like appearance, well, really chic. It’s not a simple transfer of men’s pants but an expression of ultra-flattering summer tailoring, recommended with platform shoes to gain height. A leading figure in this trend, undoubtedly Fendi by Kim Jones.

Fendi

Missoni

Jil Sander

Del Core

WIDE LEGS

And at the bottom, what’s to be worn? Beautiful wide-legged pants, roomy but structured, with a subtly silky, even slightly satin-like appearance, well, really chic. It’s not a simple transfer of men’s pants but an expression of ultra-flattering summer tailoring, recommended with platform shoes to gain height. A leading figure in this trend, undoubtedly Fendi by Kim Jones.

Fendi

Missoni

Jil Sander

Del Core

IMMACOLATA

This is the whole paradox of this Milanese fashion week, while some houses overplay the codes of sexy and glam, others offer an immaculate silhouette all in delicate shades of white, with monastic and contemporary proportions, working on volume and proportions.

Salvatore Ferragamo

Sportmax

Jil Sander

Prada

ORANGE + ANISE

Here is a super refreshing cocktail for summer, a dose of orange full of vitamins and a dose of artificial anise; Versace also shows that they can be combined on the same silhouette. These colors perfectly embody the dynamism of this new season and lend themselves to a rather sporty and tonic interpretation.

Max Mara

Versace

Blumarine

MSGM

STRIPES, THE COMING-BACK

We had lost sight of them a bit, and now they are back on the Milanese catwalks; focus on the large stripes: they are worked in an oblique and supple way at Fendi, ultra graphic mode at Marni, or in a more preppy and fresh feel at Max Mara and Anteprima. An alternative to animal skin patterns, inherent in some Italian houses.

Marni

Fendi

Max Mara

Anteprima

TOTAL PRINT

Prints from head to toe, in bold total-look; they perfectly embody this hedonistic aspiration that characterizes Milano fashion week, exuding joie de vivre, as if to announce the return of a world where frivolity and excess would be allowed again.

Versace

La Double J

Emilio Pucci

Del Core

IMMACOLATA

This is the whole paradox of this Milanese fashion week, while some houses overplay the codes of sexy and glam, others offer an immaculate silhouette all in delicate shades of white, with monastic and contemporary proportions, working on volume and proportions.

Salvatore Ferragamo

Sportmax

Jil Sander

Prada

ORANGE + ANISE

Here is a super refreshing cocktail for summer, a dose of orange full of vitamins and a dose of artificial anise; Versace also shows that they can be combined on the same silhouette. These colors perfectly embody the dynamism of this new season and lend themselves to a rather sporty and tonic interpretation.

Max Mara

Versace

Blumarine

MSGM

STRIPES, THE COMING-BACK

We had lost sight of them a bit, and now they are back on the Milanese catwalks; focus on the large stripes: they are worked in an oblique and supple way at Fendi, ultra graphic mode at Marni, or in a more preppy and fresh feel at Max Mara and Anteprima. An alternative to animal skin patterns, inherent in some Italian houses.

Marni

Fendi

Max Mara

Anteprima

TOTAL PRINT

Prints from head to toe, in bold total-look; they perfectly embody this hedonistic aspiration that characterizes Milano fashion week, exuding joie de vivre, as if to announce the return of a world where frivolity and excess would be allowed again.

Versace

La Double J

Emilio Pucci

Del Core

And finally, discover “The Swap”, or how Versace and Fendi houses exchanged their DA, Donatella and Kim Jones, for a mutagenic and addictive collection:

Coming soon: Paris “crazy” Week!

THOMAS ZYLBERMAN
SENIOR DESIGNER WOMEN’S RTW

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