Here we go again …New York fashion starts the future autumn 2021 collections of the fashion week with always a presentation mostly online and the absence of the major designers except Proenza Schouler, Jason Wu, Prabal Gurung, Phillip Lim, Victoria Beckham who concentrated on their know-how. Fortunately, this new normality in search of a well achieved sobriety to give way also to new and more experimental ideas, leaving room for the imagination of many emerging creators such as Chelsea Gray, PH5, Rentrayage, Collina Strada, Aknvas…
Nevertheless, this session remains little inclined to great enthusiasm, creating more of a divide between conventional chic fashion, reassuring with its long silhouettes, and an avant-garde with more unstructured, artisanal assemblages still in gestation. This duality is quite representative of Proenza Schouler’s wardrobe, suggesting a mix of sharply structured tailored garments with wrapping knits and handmade elements.
Or with Dirty Pineapple, a ready-to-wear and streetwear brand represented by a collective of designers based in Shanghai that explores an expressive signature that can swing between tradition, modernity and surrealism, the reflection of urban and digital life, with no distinction of gender.
Like a radiant signal, red imposes itself with force, essential, sculptural, graphic, in movement it brings an immediate assurance whether it is played in monochrome or in contrasting association with the neutrality of beige and black or shocking pink.
ALL THE LINE
Rather than introducing complex new cuts or ambitious experiments, trouser tailors show a certain sophistication. Simplification and refinement are required, but without forgetting the graphic accent of a stripe or a slit to underline the importance of the silhouette above all. Come-back to work with elegance.
Measured and structured, both the garment and the accessory explore the play of openings and cut-outs, revealing the body or new volumes to twist its classics. The jacket takes on a sportswear look, the trench coat takes off its sleeves, the dress and shirt become emancipated.
WATCH YOUR STEP…
Conformist, the checks with simplified lines are generously expressed on oversized outdoor volumes or are applied in a falsely coordinated ensemble or even as a full look over knitwear.
Anticonformists, they experiment graphically with freer, wavy, diagonal expressions on redesigned or softer forms, focusing on the suppleness of the mesh.
Do you need to choose between a more anatomically structured knit that underlines the body or a more comfortable knit that wraps around the body, without any doubt both are absolutely essential. Knitwear has become the masterpiece of our dressing , providing sensual and sexy comfort with ribbing that plays with graphic rhythms or revealing studied openings.
More comfortable, it can be layered like an accessory, in sleeveless, shouldered or in a variety of styles, combining to create a loungewear look in a soft cashmere monochrome.
The upcycling, circular economy inspires a new eclectic nomadism, rich in a combination of streetwear elements and traditional craftsmanship. Blends of patterns and colourful patchworks create silhouettes with comfy cuts and sustainable qualities, evoking diverse origins, a cultural heritage, and the desire to create a new way of life., who reinvents other stories…
HEAD DESIGNER WOMEN’S RTW