Sure, the shine of New York Fashion Week was somewhat tarnished by the cancellation of the Tom Ford show, due to multiple delays caused by the pandemic. But if the Big Apple’s fashion has lost some of its big names and charismatic leaders, it has also gained new talents and demonstrates that it is able to renew itself. Still little-known labels are spearheading inclusiveness and the rejection of stereotypes, such as Nihl, No Sesso or Charles Jeffrey Loverboy. Unexpected presentation formats have been proposed, with even an incursion into metaverse’s fashion, to be discovered at the end of this article. This season, we offer you a spotlight on the most striking collections and absolutely essential New York designers.

Tory Burch

What a journey! In a few years Tory Burch has become an ultra-bankable label, constantly moving upmarket and more creative each season. From a fashion that was originally easy to wear and accessible, even consensual, the designer has gradually moved on to a more sophisticated wardrobe, with more assertive designs. This season, she pays homage to New York and dares bold and graphic color combinations. Focus on the must-have dresses from her collection.

Tory Burch – Photos Isidore Montag

Tory Burch

What a journey! In a few years Tory Burch has become an ultra-bankable label, constantly moving upmarket and more creative each season. From a fashion that was originally easy to wear and accessible, even consensual, the designer has gradually moved on to a more sophisticated wardrobe, with more assertive designs. This season, she pays homage to New York and dares bold and graphic color combinations. Focus on the must-have dresses from her collection.

Tory Burch – Photos Isidore Montag

Tory Burch – Photos Isidore Montag

Tory Burch – Photos Isidore Montag

Tory Burch – Photos Isidore Montag

Collina Strada

Designer Hillary Taymour has made Collina Strada a leading label in terms of inclusivity and sustainability, through a fashion full of energy, largely artisanal and very socially engaged. Joyful and youthful, this collection was presented in the form of a fictional TV show starring Tommy Dorfman, a very high-profile transgender actress today. This season, Taymour plays on layerings that seem happily improvised, spontaneous, liberatingly creative.

Collina Strada – Photos Charlie Engman

Collina Strada

Designer Hillary Taymour has made Collina Strada a leading label in terms of inclusivity and sustainability, through a fashion full of energy, largely artisanal and very socially engaged. Joyful and youthful, this collection was presented in the form of a fictional TV show starring Tommy Dorfman, a very high-profile transgender actress today. This season, Taymour plays on layerings that seem happily improvised, spontaneous, liberatingly creative.

Collina Strada – Photos Charlie Engman

Collina Strada – Photos Charlie Engman

Collina Strada – Photos Charlie Engman

Collina Strada – Photos Charlie Engman

Proenza Schouler

In almost 20 years, the creative duo formed by Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough has become institutional and now embodies New York design at its best, with a style that is always sharp and formally ambitious. Known initially for their appetite for corsetry, this season they are offering a relaxed and dynamic version of their iconic silhouette with a structured bust, which responds to the voluminous and moving fullness of the bottom of the silhouette, accentuated by a peplum volume on the hips.

Proenza Schouler – Photos Jonas Gustavsson

Proenza Schouler

In almost 20 years, the creative duo formed by Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough has become institutional and now embodies New York design at its best, with a style that is always sharp and formally ambitious. Known initially for their appetite for corsetry, this season they are offering a relaxed and dynamic version of their iconic silhouette with a structured bust, which responds to the voluminous and moving fullness of the bottom of the silhouette, accentuated by a peplum volume on the hips.

Proenza Schouler – Photos Jonas Gustavsson

Proenza Schouler – Photos Jonas Gustavsson

Proenza Schouler – Photos Jonas Gustavsson

Proenza Schouler – Photos Jonas Gustavsson

Batsheva

Is this surprising, unclassifiable label in the process of becoming mainstreamed? Batsheva Hay has built her label on a very personal and timeless imagination, with ostensibly outdated codes, deliberately old-fashioned but transformed into a singular, offbeat fashion, like a little country girl lost in the big city. The crave for large retro collars with ruffled edges in the Amish style, now seen everywhere, she had it long before anyone else! Today, the little girl seems to have become a grown-up and ready to play in major league.

Batsheva – Photos Alexei Hay

Batsheva – Photos Alexei Hay

Batsheva – Photos Alexei Hay

Batsheva – Photos Alexei Hay

Batsheva

Is this surprising, unclassifiable label in the process of becoming mainstreamed? Batsheva Hay has built her label on a very personal and timeless imagination, with ostensibly outdated codes, deliberately old-fashioned but transformed into a singular, offbeat fashion, like a little country girl lost in the big city. The crave for large retro collars with ruffled edges in the Amish style, now seen everywhere, she had it long before anyone else! Today, the little girl seems to have become a grown-up and ready to play in major league.

Batsheva – Photos Alexei Hay

Dion Lee

Ah… the New York vestal, the amazon of the big cities, the urban goddess with a tonic and audaciously sculpted body who traces her haughty route in the urban meanders… she is a recurring style figure of New York fashion week and many designers dedicate their collections to it. This season, focus on Dion Lee, designer of Australian origin but now firmly anchored in New York: he is the one who captured the amazon this season.

Dion Lee – Photos Daniele Oberrauch

Dion Lee

Ah… the New York vestal, the amazon of the big cities, the urban goddess with a tonic and audaciously sculpted body who traces her haughty route in the urban meanders… she is a recurring style figure of New York fashion week and many designers dedicate their collections to it. This season, focus on Dion Lee, designer of Australian origin but now firmly anchored in New York: he is the one who captured the amazon this season.

Dion Lee – Photos Daniele Oberrauch

Dion Lee – Photos Daniele Oberrauch

Dion Lee – Photos Daniele Oberrauch

Dion Lee – Photos Daniele Oberrauch

Coach

Coach is a venerable heritage house over 80 years old, which has become the embodiment of American cool. Based on the sure values ​​of the americana but now treated in “bold” mode by Stuart Vevers, this fundamentally casual wardrobe reinvents the essentials by boosting them with the fashion codes of the moment. This collection celebrates a certain timelessness of fashion born in the USA, through clichés from cinema and series.

Coach – Photos Isidore Montag

Coach – Photos Isidore Montag

Coach – Photos Isidore Montag

Coach – Photos Isidore Montag

Khaite

Pure New Yorker, Catherine Holstein designs fashion with a strong character, assertive and urban style; she gives self-confidence to the women who wear its designs. Knowing like no other how to combine fragility and robustness, strength and softness, this season she is offering a collection mainly centered on black leather, a bit matrix-izing, offering a perfectly balanced style between the masculine and the feminine.

Khaite – Photos Hanna Tweite

Khaite – Photos Hanna Tweite

Khaite – Photos Hanna Tweite

Khaite – Photos Hanna Tweite

Imitation of Christ

This label, founded in 2000, has always been at the forefront of societal and environmental issues in the fashion industry, focusing on upcycling from the start. This season, designer Tara Subkoff invests in digital creation and brings us into the fashion metaverse.

Imitation of Christ – Photos Lynsey Addario

Imitation of Christ – Photos Lynsey Addario

Imitation of Christ – Photos Lynsey Addario

Imitation of Christ – Photos Lynsey Addario

Coach

Coach is a venerable heritage house over 80 years old, which has become the embodiment of American cool. Based on the sure values ​​of the americana but now treated in “bold” mode by Stuart Vevers, this fundamentally casual wardrobe reinvents the essentials by boosting them with the fashion codes of the moment. This collection celebrates a certain timelessness of fashion born in the USA, through clichés from cinema and series.

Coach – Photos Isidore Montag

Khaite

Pure New Yorker, Catherine Holstein designs fashion with a strong character, assertive and urban style; she gives self-confidence to the women who wear its designs. Knowing like no other how to combine fragility and robustness, strength and softness, this season she is offering a collection mainly centered on black leather, a bit matrix-izing, offering a perfectly balanced style between the masculine and the feminine.

Khaite – Photos Hanna Tweite

Imitation of Christ

This label, founded in 2000, has always been at the forefront of societal and environmental issues in the fashion industry, focusing on upcycling from the start. This season, designer Tara Subkoff invests in digital creation and brings us into the fashion metaverse.

Imitation of Christ – Photos Lynsey Addario

Coming soon : London fashion week!

THOMAS ZYLBERMAN
SENIOR DESIGNER WOMEN’S RTW

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