Fashion Week, which started with New York, is mostly digital and distributed under the new Runway360 platform in a reduced format of 4 days, from September 14 to 16. Although Tom Ford closed the event, the heavyweights of the sector, such as Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren were absent from the 2020 edition. In a country in the midst of an identity and health crisis, the collections for the 2020-2021 Spring/Summer season were expressed in a certain form of reinsurance, effortless. In radical opposition to the more emerging designers who are more demanding, very experimental and more engaged in a mode of rearrangement and recovery. What can we learn from this apparent confrontation? A more pragmatic style with the leitmotiv of comfortwear, so beloved to the history of American style.
HIGHLIGHTER HUES
Flashes of fluorinated colors, in large monochrome solid or in combination, they express with a generous intensity a minimalist fullness.
Jason Wu
Aknvas
Cinq à Sept
BURST ORANGE
Like a bleached incandescence with terracotta tones, from faded tanned leathers the burnt orange is revealed with a muted warm softness.
Jason Wu
Aknvas
Appots
SUPER SOFT SEDUCTION
Between loungewear and leisurewear, our wardrobe never stops revisiting the silhouette with a pragmatic, sensual and even romantic casualness. The sporty codes borrow the essential panoply, bringing up to date on knit or woven tracksuit, neojogg, shorty, bralette with lightness, fluidity and sliding or elasticated details.
Thakoon
Cinq à Sept
Vivienne Hu
Vivienne Hu
Khaite
Ulla Johnson
LONG LINE ESSENTIALITY
All in extreme length, whether it’s jacket, trouser suit, tunic, tube dress, the straight line adapts to a long silhouette, not belted suggesting the body or more adjusted to underline it. There also, the knit becomes essential.
Nells Nelson
Marina Moscone
Bevza
Marina Moscone
Simon Miller
Theory
SPORTSWEAR ROMANCE VS SPORTY GLAM
Old fashioned, with a touch of retro and vintage charm, the romantic look follows sportswear codes in a play of layering or combinations of sweater and shirting, graphic details with striped ribbed edges, or with accessories.
Rodarte
Rentrayage
Coach
Another more daring approach, highly satiny, reveals a sexy silhouette all curved and cut or conversely, elegantly hides a falsely nonchalant look, a style tayloring or jogging pyjama party.
LaQuan Smith
LaQuan Smith
Tom Ford
AMPLE COMFORT
More functional than the skirt, the Bermuda shorts with wide legs and high waist, announces a chic and relaxed return in a coordinated style, worn as a 3 pieces suit, as an outdoor suit with a parka or in association in tonic monochrome for a full summer exotic city.
Zimmermann
Adeam
Jason Wu
Out the close-fit body volume, the same way for pants which goes on taking the wide in maxi length with a softened draw or even all in fluidity on a crepe/viscose fabric for an evening or day wear.
Adeam
Theory
Tom Ford
