We coined in this name having in mind the reputation, values and heritage forged by Joko for years, but also thinking of further spreading the wings of our innovativeness, creativity, and passion for cosmetics.
C.P: As an expert in color in particular, what do you think it echoes for you and your customers?
E.B: Make up market has its own set of rules regarding colors. On one hand there are many classic, basic colors used in for example eyes and lip make up – and those will never change as they compliment natural beauty. On the other hand you’ll find trendy color combinations that are always changing bringing something new each season.
As a color cosmetics producer it’s important for us to know and understand all those differences, be always a step ahead and ready to work with our clients to achieve their goals.
C.P: Consumers’ concerns about the safety of the products used are growing, the demand for transparency is exacerbated, how do you adapt as formulators?
E.B: Consumers are now immensely influential and demanding and they force brands to accommodate to their expectations very fast. This means that we also need to answer to those needs customizing our formulas (removing crude-oil derivatives, microplastics, D5, D6, non-vegan ingredients and others). All these ingredients are considered harmful, even though we, as a producer, sometimes know these are not scientifically-grounded market myths. Also, there is a huge demand for ’cleaner’ or natural formulas (more and more often certifiable), and this tendency will only go stronger.
C.P: Wearing masks is shaking up the codes of beauty, especially the relationship with make-up. Do you have any requests for product development that meet new needs?
E.B: Absolutely. On the one hand, our clients are looking for formulas with the efficient percentage of active ingredients that boost the skin’s barrier (pro- and pre-biotics, adoptogenes, anti-irritation and soothing ones) and also protect it from maskne breakouts. Beauty mists with those active ingredients are hugely popular. On the other hand, our clients are looking for long-lasting formulas that would look good when you take off your mask.
Oh, and definitely, lips category is not the most popular one, maybe apart from different balms, masks, peelings – solutions that are more towards care than color.
C.P: Social distancing also changes our relationship to sensuality and touch. What innovations have you launched to counter these changes in behavior?
E.B: Definitely touchless formats are more popular now, for the obvious reason. We have rolled out some formulas in a different format that primarily planned, packing them to vessels with applicators, as opposed to jars.
C.P: Do you see marked geographical particularities in the consumption of beauty products for the brands you work with?
E.B: Our global clients do not disclose the information concerning the markets where the products made at Nuco are distributed to, so we can hardly discuss those differences on this basis.
C.P: What do you see as the great consumer expectations of tomorrow?
E.B: Consumers are better educated and more demanding. That’s why cosmetics will need to become cleaner and cleaner. ‘Vegan’ will not be a claim to boast about but something that is taken for granted and a standard. Cosmetics will also need to be packed into more and more ‘green’ packaging – preferably made of PCR and recyclable or biodegradable materials. Local brands will be more supported because they definitely have lower carbon footprint. All brands will need to show that they have authentic cause which they will be able to communicate in an open dialogue with the consumers.
C.P: How do you move forward and develop your expertise WITHOUT trade shows?
E.B: We study reports and industry portals. We take part in a multitude of webinars and conferences. Last November for example we participated in the online version of in-cosmetics show, which is a one-stop place for gaining all the information concerning the direction of the beauty business.
C.P: Thank you so much Ela for taking the time for this interview!