The Paris – Milan axis, this is the perspective that we offer you to end in style the tremendous cycle of fashion weeks; on the program convergences and divergences, fetishistic obsessions vs asexual androgyny, pulsating red vs shocking pink, sex or gender, we finally find within the two major fashion capitals a common questioning about what will be tomorrow’s women’s and/or men’s fashion, on the very relevance of the distinction between the two which now seems to be over. But far from ending up with a monolithic vision of the silhouette, we fortunately observe exciting swerves between exposed or caparisoned bodies, desirable and powerful bodies, assumed sexiness and sometimes puzzling gender-fluidity. Come on, we help you see clearly:

Bombers vs Shearling

A little tired of the down jacket? Good news, the designers are rehabilitating the nylon bomber jackets that we had lost sight of a little and are putting on shearling, in natural tones or re-colored.

Prada

Raf Simons

Isabel Marant

Sacai

Off-White

Palm Angels

Bombers vs Shearling

A little tired of the down jacket? Good news, the designers are rehabilitating the nylon bomber jackets that we had lost sight of a little and are putting on shearling, in natural tones or re-colored.

Prada

Raf Simons

Isabel Marant

Sacai

Off-White

Palm Angels

Suit versus Coat

A duel that is not really one and for good reason: the oversized masculine suit jacket vs the large, well-shouldered men’s coat; both share the same enthusiasm for an androgynous wardrobe with a “bossy” look.

Gucci

Ambush

Saint Laurent

Stella McCartney

Gauchere

Vtmnts

Suit versus Coat

A duel that is not really one and for good reason: the oversized masculine suit jacket vs the large, well-shouldered men’s coat; both share the same enthusiasm for an androgynous wardrobe with a “bossy” look.

Gucci

Ambush

Saint Laurent

Stella McCartney

Gauchere

Vtmnts

Forever checks

Clearly, we can’t say that the subject is very new but checks seem to have a long life and are worked by many houses. You can choose from the very graphic tartan or the eternal Prince of Wales, teated in shades of brown.

Roberto Cavalli

Off-White

Marine Serre

Gucci

Longchamp

Miu Miu

Forever checks

Clearly, we can’t say that the subject is very new but checks seem to have a long life and are worked by many houses. You can choose from the very graphic tartan or the eternal Prince of Wales, teated in shades of brown.

Roberto Cavalli

Off-White

Marine Serre

Gucci

Longchamp

Miu Miu

Bustier against Bustier!

Omnipresent for several seasons, it has been reinvented in the form of two complementary avatars: the bustier worn over a shirt with a “boy meets girl” mood , or the bustier on blazer mode, worked as a hybrid suit.

Balmain

Rokh

Fendi

Sacai

Dolce & Gabbana

Sportmax

Bustier against Bustier!

Omnipresent for several seasons, it has been reinvented in the form of two complementary avatars: the bustier worn over a shirt with a “boy meets girl” mood , or the bustier on blazer mode, worked as a hybrid suit.

Balmain

Rokh

Fendi

Sacai

Dolce & Gabbana

Sportmax

Harness

Emblematic of a season that combines sexiness and empowerment, the harness spirit and the dress-bra impose themselves on the catwalks, and maybe later at the office or on the streets, let’s be optimistic! Black straps dramatize the bust and revisit dominatrix and fetishistic clichés.

Balmain

Koché

Roberto Cavalli

Stella McCartney

Courrèges

Dolce & Gabbana

Vestals & Transparency

Right in the middle of a fashion world mainly obsessed with the question of gender and sex, a preserved Olympian island displays drapes and rolling round in a contemporary vestal style but in crushed velvet exclusively, or relies on renewed transparencies with shivering textures.

Stella McCartney

Isabel Marant

Atlein

Fendi

Ester Manas

Prada

Catsuit

It’s everywhere ; in black or in color, sexy or minimalistic, decorated or semi-transparent, the catsuit also stands out in its details, while fully assuming the body-conscious effect.

Roberto Cavalli

Blumarine

Dolce & Gabbana

Acne Studios

Balenciaga

Stella McCartney

Thin Straps vs Tank Top

Two ways to show off shoulders, revealing the major challenge of the season, the ultra-thin and hyper-feminine strap, or the white guy-style tank top, to be worn primarily with leather pants or a skirt.

Bottega Veneta

Saint Laurent

Givenchy

Bottega Veneta

Prada

Chloé

Y2K Low Rise

Everyone noticed the flourishing come-back of low-waist pants, another point marked by the Y2K trend and a nightmare for pupils‘ parents already traumatized by the crop top. So, low waist pants will stand for color, or will be treated in denim as the too big – too wide pair of jeans, even with sparkling decor.

Missoni

Isabel Marant

MSGM

Givenchy

Versace

MSGM

The skirt: Mini vs Leather

In the skirt section, we are offered two very clearly identified options: either the mini, but really mini, huh, or the below-the-knees black leather skirt, for a torrid bourgeois subverted look.

Versace

Courrèges

Miu Miu

Gucci

Hermès

Chloé

Red vs Pink

Apart from the reign of black this season, it will be intense red or shocking pink, an eternal duel of colors that are already ever-present but which definitely don’t want to leave.

Marine Serre

Max Mara

Sacai

Chanel

Valentino

Loewe

And Otherwise?

Well, otherwise, catwalks mostly stand for blue, a graphic and dynamic blue, with a slightly 80s vibe, which makes an ultra-fast comeback, barely gone, already back.

Louis Vuitton

Off-White

Koché

Isabel Marant

Tom Ford

MSGM

Tie vs Thigh Highs

There, everything is crystal-clear : men’s ties vs thigh high boots, the duel that perfectly embodies the duality of this FW22 season which navigates between torrid sexiness and tomboy attitude. Tie AND thigh high boots on the same look? Nobody dared but that’s quite tempting.

Louis Vuitton

Gucci

Miu Miu

Isabel Marant

Bottega Veneta

Courrèges

Dark Mood

Demna Gvasalia, artistic director of Balenciaga is of Georgian origin; in empathy with the Ukrainian refugees, he delivers a staggering show as a dark manifesto, blowing a snowstorm on silhouettes struggling against the wind.

Focus on…

… the sustainable-glam of young designer Kevin Germanier to cheer up; he presented his very first physical show in Paris. On the program, multicolored bead embroideries and colorful feathers, proof that you can be ethical, sustainable, conscious, and yet devilishly glamorous.

Germanier

Harness

Emblematic of a season that combines sexiness and empowerment, the harness spirit and the dress-bra impose themselves on the catwalks, and maybe later at the office or on the streets, let’s be optimistic! Black straps dramatize the bust and revisit dominatrix and fetishistic clichés.

Balmain

Koché

Roberto Cavalli

Stella McCartney

Courrèges

Dolce & Gabbana

Vestals & Transparency

Right in the middle of a fashion world mainly obsessed with the question of gender and sex, a preserved Olympian island displays drapes and rolling round in a contemporary vestal style but in crushed velvet exclusively, or relies on renewed transparencies with shivering textures.

Stella McCartney

Isabel Marant

Atlein

Fendi

Ester Manas

Prada

Catsuit

It’s everywhere ; in black or in color, sexy or minimalistic, decorated or semi-transparent, the catsuit also stands out in its details, while fully assuming the body-conscious effect.

Roberto Cavalli

Blumarine

Dolce & Gabbana

Acne Studios

Balenciaga

Stella McCartney

Thin Straps vs Tank Top

Two ways to show off shoulders, revealing the major challenge of the season, the ultra-thin and hyper-feminine strap, or the white guy-style tank top, to be worn primarily with leather pants or a skirt.

Bottega Veneta

Saint Laurent

Givenchy

Bottega Veneta

Prada

Chloé

Y2K Low Rise

Everyone noticed the flourishing come-back of low-waist pants, another point marked by the Y2K trend and a nightmare for pupils‘ parents already traumatized by the crop top. So, low waist pants will stand for color, or will be treated in denim as the too big – too wide pair of jeans, even with sparkling decor.

Missoni

Isabel Marant

MSGM

Givenchy

Versace

MSGM

The skirt: Mini vs Leather

In the skirt section, we are offered two very clearly identified options: either the mini, but really mini, huh, or the below-the-knees black leather skirt, for a torrid bourgeois subverted look.

Versace

Courrèges

Miu Miu

Gucci

Hermès

Chloé

Red vs Pink

Apart from the reign of black this season, it will be intense red or shocking pink, an eternal duel of colors that are already ever-present but which definitely don’t want to leave.

Marine Serre

Max Mara

Sacai

Chanel

Valentino

Loewe

And Otherwise?

Well, otherwise, catwalks mostly stand for blue, a graphic and dynamic blue, with a slightly 80s vibe, which makes an ultra-fast comeback, barely gone, already back.

Louis Vuitton

Off-White

Koché

Isabel Marant

Tom Ford

MSGM

Tie vs Thigh Highs

There, everything is crystal-clear : men’s ties vs thigh high boots, the duel that perfectly embodies the duality of this FW22 season which navigates between torrid sexiness and tomboy attitude. Tie AND thigh high boots on the same look? Nobody dared but that’s quite tempting.

Louis Vuitton

Gucci

Miu Miu

Isabel Marant

Bottega Veneta

Courrèges

Dark Mood

Demna Gvasalia, artistic director of Balenciaga is of Georgian origin; in empathy with the Ukrainian refugees, he delivers a staggering show as a dark manifesto, blowing a snowstorm on silhouettes struggling against the wind.

Focus on…

… the sustainable-glam of young designer Kevin Germanier to cheer up; he presented his very first physical show in Paris. On the program, multicolored bead embroideries and colorful feathers, proof that you can be ethical, sustainable, conscious, and yet devilishly glamorous.

Germanier

Germanier

Germanier

Crédits:

Phil Oh, Alessandro Lucioni, Paolo Lanzi, Salavatore Dragone, Aramando Grillo, Isidore Montag, Filipo Fior, Daniele Oberrauch, GoRunway.

THOMAS ZYLBERMAN
SENIOR DESIGNER WOMEN’S RTW

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