Redefining the feminine codes against a backdrop of societal and judicial controversies, Paris does not hesitate to return the subject, on empowerment and re-appropriation mode: yes to sexy and to sharpness… reconsidered from the point of view of the main stakeholders: women. But beyond a certain eternal Parisian allure in black-red-white mood, there are many and abundant unexpected proposals, conceptual and hybrid designs, which offer another take on the silhouette, far from clichés.
BLAZER
It’s the obsession of all designers, THE piece that makes everyone agree while paradoxically offering great freedom of interpretation. The blazer is treated in all forms and all proportions, classic, twisted, re-shaped, cropped … there’s something for everyone, it’s open bar:
Balmain
Nina Ricci
Saint Laurent
Y Project
HOUPPELANDE
Do you know what the houppelande is? This is this enveloping cape-coat with long, loose sleeves that our medieval ancestors wore to fight the cold and hostile wind… Well, get ready for it, the houppelande becomes a real alternative to the cape.
Balmain
Celine
Givenchy
Hermes
SHOULDERS AND SLEEVES
So there, it’s like the heart in fusion of a nuclear reactor, it never, never stops: the shoulder is bubbling, popping out, the sleeve is swelling, and puffing up; they sweep away everything in their paths and become a sort of trend-alibi that always does the job!
Alexander McQueen
Balenciaga
Isabelle Marant
Koche
LONG
Really long, eh, no more midi-lengh! Yes, barely did the return of the court begin to dawn on the horizon and refresh our eyes when the Parisian designers launched an assault on the podiums with an army of long silhouettes.
Chanel
Kenzo
Miu Miu
Stella McCartney
THIN QUILTING
Wonderfully flattering for any type of silhouette (yes, this is sarcastic), these relatively fine quilted fabrics are used to make clothes that look like… well, covers, in which to store your body and your libido. It’s convenient.
Atlein
Kenzo
Kwaidan Editions
Nina Ricci
UNSINKABLE CHECKS
Fashion is supposed to be what goes out of fashion… except that it doesn’t. We therefore forget this type of aphorism because checks seem unsinkable, resistant to the unexpected jolts of seasonnal trends, they are unstoppable, from New York to Paris!
Dior
Miu Miu
Rokh
Stella McCartney
PRECIOUS
In a rather theatrical season, the precious jacquards and golden embroideries, to be used all-over, play the twist: it’s not baroque nor rococo, it’s not even about historical references, it’s about minimalistic shapes with minimalistic decor, it’s… modern.
Celine
Lutz Huelle
Marine Serre
Rochas
IN RED AND BLACK
With the increasing influence of the 80’s on the catwalks, it had to end up happening: it is rumored everywhere that rock attitude, swept away by rap game, would be ready to take revenge. While waiting for a hypothetical punk revival, time to listen again to french singer Jeanne Mas.
Hermès
Koche
Louis Vuitton
Valentino
HARNESS
And suddenly, history accelerates; from punk to SM, from leather to latex, there is only a whiplash! Paris Fashion Week plays it sexy, sharp and naughty, on erotic empowerment mode:
Coperni
Mugler
Saint Laurent
Junya Watanabee
PENDANT vs CHOKER
If the pendant necklace undeniably returns to fashion under the influence of the Celine “bourgeoise” posh woman, the choker in big golden chains has not said its last word! They can even be combined as at Saint Laurent!
Celine
Givenchy
Y Project
Saint Laurent
