“GET OUT !” This is basically the message that the Parisian houses sent us during the last fashion week, still virtual but determined to come to life for real from the first fall of autumn leaves. For the next season, the designers have the firm intention of taking us out of our homes and confronting us to the outside world, by offering silhouettes ready to brave any weather, protective, functional, urban or downright oudoor, not to mention the “social” exterior that reconnects with a structured and tailored silhouette. No more sweat pants and pajamas, even chic ones, because if the search for comfort remains omnipresent, it’s definitely going to happen outside. We hope so very much.
A promise is a promise, whatever the temperatures, no excuse not to go out. Oversized padding and quilting envelop the body, in a frankly skiwear vein at Miu Miu, total-look at Balmain or more urban with designer edge at Loewe and Louis Vuitton.
Let’s deflate a little bit and find again a semblance of a silhouette but then practical and functional please, with pockets everywhere, flaps, snaps, because we will pace the city up and down, rain or shine. Rather classic interpretation at Hermès and Longchamp, or pimped by color at Isabel Marant and Nina Ricci.
Still in this “outside” perspective, the Parisian houses took out their needles and knitted us little jacquard sweaters to wear on any occasion and especially as a layering on a dress. In a pop version at Chanel and Miu Miu, or colorless and urban at Lutz Huelle or Paco Rabanne.
The appetite for warm fashion is found at many designers with a palette of browns and caramels tones to be treated in large and enveloping plain fabrics like at Acne Studio and Vuitton, or worked in leather patchwork like at Chloé or Marine Serre.
This is the other side of FW trends: a sober fashion in minimalist monochromes of gray, which plays with overlays and asymmetries to reinvent the urban suiting. Designer Peter Do quickly established himself as the go-to benchmark for renewed tailoring, while Y/Project continues to work around anamorphoses and hybridizations.
It is the piece that will symbolize our return to social life after more than a year spent in sluggish clothes: the coming-back of the jacket clearly fitted at the waist, contrasting to the oversized, loose blazer that we’re seeing a lot at the moment. Next season will be on a more pronounced waistline that emphasizes the bust for a perfectly classic and chic look, which is precisely what we need.
If there’s one color that perfectly pairs with grays and blacks, it’s that little acid yellow-green that you find at many labels and that brightens-up collections with its somewhat artificial glow. It is often treated in knit, foamy and XXL at Balmain, or rather fitted at Coperni or Vetements.
Foreseen in some collections of the previous edition, short lengths will be clearly essential next season and bring a breath of optimism and salutary freshness. If we necessarily think of the 60s, positive and forward-looking times, we are clearly not here in a decade evocation but we wish to believe in the promises of bright and optimistic tomorrows!
Short dresses or skirts often mean thigh-high boots craze, especially for an autumn-winter season; it is the charismatic combo who will sign the new leg-show look but well protected from the frost and the vagaries of the weather. In a functional version at Acne Studio and Balmain, rather city-chic at Courrèges and downright party-time at Coperni.
Eclipsed for several seasons by the omnipresence of pink, red is making a strong comeback, as the embodiment of an elegance that is both timeless and assertive. It infuses the energy and vitality we need to rediscover the pleasure of dressing, going out, walking in the streets, whatever… Red, or dead!
And finally, like Lady Gaga at the American presidential nomination or Beyonce at the latest Grammy Awards, we let ourselves be fascinated by the surrealism of Schiaparelli, with dreamlike and fantastic sculptural accessories:
SENIOR DESIGNER WOMEN’S RTW