Is there a message? While some American labels want to renegotiate the schedule of collections and impose new processes, Paris is responding with a powerful and creative SS17 fashion week, made of affirmed commitments, sometimes radical. Emerging designers or famous institutional brands succeeded in mixing strength and femininity that is signing the season, working obsessively the confrontation between street culture and exceptional stuff.
Street N’ Glam
A perfectly representative example of these swapping between streetwear and high fashion that characterizes this Paris season: the metallic shine somewhat synthetic in a “survival blanket” way.
Wanda-Nylon – Imaxtree Madame Figaro
Isabel Marant – Imaxtree Madame Figaro
Kenzo – Imaxtree Madame Figaro
Johanna Senyk, the designer of Wanda Nylon, goes further on transposing of rainwear into highly desirable fashion product, establishing herself as one of the hottest young Parisian labels. Isabel Marant, meanwhile, manages a beautiful synthesis of charm and functionality, self-insurance and femininity. The duo leading Kenzo organizes the crossover between chic workwear and shine 80’s, with a collection that favors this season materials and cuts, more than the patterns.
But Paris would not be Paris without the enhanced glamor, this fascination for black and transparency, this nervous look, sharp, and this “all in legs” silhouette.
More rock or more couture depending on the “maison”, pure fantasy made in Paname.
Saint Laurent – Imaxtree Madame Figaro
Elie Saab – Imaxtree Madame Figaro
Emanuel Ungaro – Imaxtree Madame Figaro
At Saint Laurent, Vaccarello manages the synthesis between his own obsessions and the rock heritage of his predecessor, thus ensuring continuity-in-the-break-up with a collection “more Parisian, you die.”
Palace club years have inspired many designers and Elie Saab also offers a collection more “attitude” than usual, drawing the ideal wardrobe for the party-girl in a 24/7 way.
With Fausto Puglisi, Ungaro has regained its superb with a collection very focused on flounce, highlight of the season and omnipresent.
The Asphalt Amazon
One of the major trends of the SFW is this long and supple silhouette, with contemporary lines, which makes the synthesis between comfort and sensuality.
Lemaire – Imaxtree Madame Figaro
Loewe – Imaxtree Madame figaro
Louis Vuitton – Imaxtree Madame Figaro
Lemaire excels in this blend of elegance and elaborated simplicity, working loose volumes often going with a large bag worn at shoulder that comes fully integrate into silhouette.
At Loewe, Anderson also questioned the role of accessory and leather goods compared to the garment with a both mature and creative collection.
At Louis Vuitton, Ghesquière offers a stately bearing and often asymmetrical silhouette, combining brilliantly power and suppleness in a more elegant and “post-bourgeois” vein than his previous collections.
Juxtaposed and sometimes “squeaking” colors, patterns that evoke artwork collage or paintbrush tracks, the silhouette worked as an installation or artistic manifesto.
Koché – Imaxtree Madame Figaro
Drome – Imaxtree Madame Figaro
Hermes – Imaxtree Madame Figaro
Emerging label in this field, Koché is gaining visibility and plays the trendy underground card with bold visual choices and no-gender attitude. An attractive position today in terms of buzz that Vêtements opened. In a more theatrical vein, DROMe offers improbable clash between baroque and pop influences under the imagination of its designer Mariana Rosati. In contrast with these alternative labels, the institutional Hermes house offers a collection where color fits perfectly among the most timeless neutrals.
Soft or vibrant, floral or artificial, this shade is amply declined on the Parisian catwalks, imposing itself as THE new color of the season.
Carven – Imaxtree Madame Figaro
Nina Ricci – Imaxtree Madame Figaro
Veronique Leroy – Imaxtree Madame Figaro
Y Project – Imaxtree Madame Figaro
Balenciaga – Imaxtree Madame Figaro
A palette known to be difficult to wear and to sell in continental Europe but more culturally rooted in Anglo-Saxon culture … Let’s see how this color trend will be adapted in the collections of more affordable high-street brands, to be continued …!
By Thomas Zylberman and Claire Remy, from Carlin Creative Trend Bureau
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