Paris has completed the infernal cycle of fashion weeks in a very non-summery mood, most often in the rain, echoing several dark collections or outdoor shows that had to defy climate’s contingencies. A very Parisian atmosphere indeed: few colors, statement proportions, an avant-garde turning to luxury … or maybe this could happen to be the opposite! However, the upgrading towards more chic of “disruptive” labels is very real, while some heritage houses do not hesitate to take creative risks, which rebates the cards so as to keep us in suspense. Here are the highlights of this Parisian week:

BLACK DRAMA

Like the Oil Spill theme of Marine Serre, the mood was sometimes downright dark on the catwalks. Varnished, glossy, shiny, fascinating … so Black indeed, eternally Parisian, sometimes reminiscent of the late 90’s and the transition to the new century.

Marine Serre

Sacai

Rokh

Balenciaga FIO0635

LACE WITH TEMPER

Still no color, but the emergence of a certain reconsidered eroticism, with the come-back of lace on the catwalks, often worked in reference to the lingerie-corsetry realm. A silhouette both dark and sensual, with strong temper.

Alexander Mc Queen

Koché

Loewe

Olivier Theyskens

DESIGNER’S DENIM

Denim carries on fascinating designers and main houses this season more than ever. At Givenchy and Dior, it is proposed in tachist-style acid-wash effect, while it plays with vintage codes at Celine or Stella McCartney.

Givenchy

Dior

Celine

Stella McCartney

NEO 70’S

At least as recurrent as denim, the neo-70’s look seems to be a Parisian obsession. If Celine and Saint Laurent propose a very literal version, Vuitton and Miu Miu engage a distancing re-interpretation with an edgy twist.

Celine

Saint-Laurent

Louis Vuitton

Miu Miu

PORTHOLES

This is the gimmick of the season, we find it as well on dresses, tunics as on fitted knit sweaters. A particularly legitimate detail in houses like Courrèges or Paco Rabanne, considering their fashion heritage.

Courrèges

Paco Rabanne

Off-White

Balmain

BERMUDA SHORTS

After the come-back of divided-skirts and culottes, that was quite predictable: the return of knee-length Bermuda shorts was quite obvious on the catwalks. And the more chic they are, the better! A new way to express the suit and the total look, from day to night.

Rochas

Chanel

Givenchy

Saint-Laurent

LIME GREEN

It was the ray of light of this fashion week: focus on bright lime-green, treated mainly on soft and silky fabrics, sometimes in slight transparency; a must-have color that perfectly embodies our Divagations theme.

Carlin

Rochas

Valentino

Kwaidan Editions

MOMENTUM

This is one of our leading trends of the season; its dynamic and tonic spirit raised out of this sometimes autumnal SS fashion week. So, long live spring! The positive energy and vitality of this Momentum story makes the connection between sporty influences and contemporary design.

Carlin

Faith Connexion

Issey Miyake

Off-White

THOMAS ZYLBERMAN
Senior Designer Women’s RTW

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