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Perfume is the new brands’ expression territory

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While perfume has long been exploited as a branded product, with an independent distribution, intended to effectively supplement the turnover of brands, it is now becoming an item in its own right, with its own communication strategies, its codes and trends.

Carlin Creative Trend Bureau explores 4 strong trends in the world of perfume, to guide the collections, from the ingredient to the distribution.

[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=”.vc_custom_1488907818994{margin-top: 0px !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/2″ text_align=”left”][vc_single_image image=”5457″ img_size=”large”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″][vc_column_text css_animation=”fadeInUp” css=”.vc_custom_1488971557150{margin-right: 0px !important;}”]

1) The return of refuge ingredients

At the time of a global desire to return to the sources – initiated by food, then ready-to-wear – perfume is not left behind and professionals offer more and more raw materials simplified and high comforting potential.

In the line of sight: the rose.

Long considered as an ultra-feminine scent, even obsolete, it today seduces many perfumers. She arrives in top note especially at Annick Goutal (Rose Pompon), or Yves Saint Laurent (Paris Premières Roses), in a fresher version than usual. A bias to renew and modernize the ingredient.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=”.vc_custom_1488818756683{margin-top: 20px !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/2″ text_align=”left”][vc_column_text css_animation=”fadeInUp” css=”.vc_custom_1488971607593{margin-right: 0px !important;border-right-width: 15px !important;}”]A way also to communicate on the know-how of a house, like Chanel who takes consumers in his fields of roses to Grasse, to discover the harvest of May roses. An initiative of the brand to modernize the artisanal character of the process, through a digital strategy, in collaboration with influential bloggers (Pauline Fashion Blog, The Brunette), a dedicated mini-film and behind the scenes of the harvest on the brand’s Instagram.

2. Olfactory collection

In a movement of declination of essentials operated by the ready-to-wear (return to the timeless pieces, to collect), and the surge in the development of our interiors (beautiful images from bathrooms with the products staged on Instagram), the perfume is also revamping its branding through packaging and storytelling that appeal to the collection.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ css=”.vc_custom_1488816823283{padding-top: 15px !important;}”][vc_single_image image=”5458″ img_size=”full” alignment=”center” css=”.vc_custom_1488908395066{padding-top: 100px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=”.vc_custom_1488818756683{margin-top: 20px !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/2″ text_align=”left”][vc_single_image image=”5459″ img_size=”large” css=”.vc_custom_1488908448030{padding-top: 120px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ css=”.vc_custom_1488816823283{padding-top: 15px !important;}”][vc_column_text css_animation=”fadeInUp” css=”.vc_custom_1488971630704{margin-right: 0px !important;border-right-width: 15px !important;}”]Etat Libre d’Orange proposes a collection of 34 fragrances, all with signature packaging, an emblem shouting loudly the colors of France, and describes its olfactory compositions as “all ambitious, all indispensable”. A bold, provocative bias that seduces the addicts of the brand.

Like niche perfumers, brands today create a strong and differentiating universe for their perfume collections.

This is the case of Dolce & Gabbana, who, through a numbered series, tells the story of a character (The Bateleur, The Empress, The Lover …). A branding that makes you want to collect the juices to complete the story.

Similarly, Maison Martin Margiela takes the part of transcribing familiar odors in its collection Replica. As with Dolce & Gabbana, the packagings are similar and respond, and the house plays on juices to alternate according to our olfactory emotions and desires.

A way to retain the consumer through a collection become indispensable, to satisfy our desires for aesthetics of our daily lives.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=”.vc_custom_1488818756683{margin-top: 20px !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/2″ text_align=”left”][vc_column_text css_animation=”fadeInUp” css=”.vc_custom_1488971832749{margin-right: 0px !important;border-right-width: 15px !important;}”]

3. Gender mix

Fashion and beauty have, in recent seasons, pushed the codes of the genre. Selfridges opens his corner “Agender”, thought to be “free of gender”, while the ready-to-wear fair in Milan launches an “Open” section, where unmarked brands can display their collections without being categorized. In the same way, more and more houses of perfume claim the mixing, even the non-positioning of their compositions.

Thus, Hermès evokes the “sharing” of its flavors, while Prada (The Woman and The Man) and Zadig & Voltaire (This is Her, This is Him) offer a common offer to men and women, with identical bottles and interchangeable at will.

In the same vein, Chanel released his first mixed juice, soberly titled “Boy”.

A strategy of free and mixed positioning (or non-positioning) to open the spectrum of an undifferentiated target.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ css=”.vc_custom_1488816823283{padding-top: 15px !important;}”][vc_single_image image=”5460″ img_size=”large” css=”.vc_custom_1488972222442{padding-top: 50px !important;}”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=”.vc_custom_1488818756683{margin-top: 20px !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/2″ text_align=”left”][vc_single_image image=”5462″ img_size=”large” css=”.vc_custom_1488908657782{padding-top: 60px !important;}”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ css=”.vc_custom_1488816823283{padding-top: 15px !important;}”][vc_column_text css_animation=”fadeInUp” css=”.vc_custom_1488971987020{margin-right: 0px !important;border-right-width: 15px !important;padding-top: 50px !important;}”]

4. Digital stories

If the perfume evolves in the shelves and reinvents its storytelling, it nevertheless seems always difficult to associate with the digital world, which has no olfactory value.

The brands are developing new strategies to acquire digital visibility and to enter into conversation with younger consumers.

In a participatory strategy, Cacharel relies on its best-seller Amor Amor to launch competitions on Instagram and recruit its next muse. A high-engagement initiative, the brand having conquered nearly 831,000 fans on Facebook.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=”.vc_custom_1488818756683{margin-top: 20px !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/2″ text_align=”left”][vc_column_text css_animation=”fadeInUp” css=”.vc_custom_1488971938454{margin-right: 0px !important;border-right-width: 15px !important;padding-top: 80px !important;}”]Storytelling is at the heart of digital strategies. Jean-Paul Gaultier imagines a film “Be The Drop”, where the individual is immersed in the process of creating a perfume, in place of the drop that constitutes the juice, while Kenzo revives his image with the film “Kenzo World”, directed by Spike Jonze. Through mini-films and dedicated sites, the brands tell their world and remodernise the imprint of their perfumes. An effective way to communicate: Kenzo has attracted 700,000 views on Youtube and was Trend Topic on Twitter with “Kenzo World”.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ css=”.vc_custom_1488816823283{padding-top: 15px !important;}”][vc_single_image image=”5461″ img_size=”large”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=”.vc_custom_1488818756683{margin-top: 20px !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/2″ text_align=”left”][vc_video link=”https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABz2m0olmPg”][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/2″ css=”.vc_custom_1488816823283{padding-top: 15px !important;}”][vc_column_text css_animation=”fadeInUp” css=”.vc_custom_1488971949118{margin-right: 0px !important;border-right-width: 15px !important;padding-top: 60px !important;}”]The phygital allows to combine physical value of the store and digitization of the tools. For example, Sephora launches Sephora Flash, its digital store, rue de Rivoli in Paris. Inside, a wall of physical perfumes to test and then to order thanks to a virtual basket. An initiative that allows the store to reduce the space devoted to the stores (130m2 for Sephora Flash against 400m2 for the traditional stores) to be present in areas still undeveloped.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=”.vc_custom_1488818756683{margin-top: 20px !important;}”][vc_column text_align=”left”][vc_text_separator title=”Post by” style=”dashed” css=”.vc_custom_1489055186751{margin-top: 40px !important;margin-bottom: 20px !important;}”][vc_single_image image=”5484″ alignment=”center” style=”vc_box_circle_2″ css_animation=”flipInX”][vc_column_text css_animation=”fadeInUp” css=”.vc_custom_1489055222983{margin-right: 0px !important;border-right-width: 15px !important;}”]

Pauline BONAFOUS

Marketing Project Manager – Intimacy
at CARLIN CREATIVE TREND BUREAU

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